Moissac in Tarn-et-Garonne

Why Visit Moissac

Moissac in the Tarn-et-Garonne department in the Midi-Pyrénées region of France is a delightful discovery. It’s a small, rather sleepy place with a boat marina where barges moor for the night. It’s best known for its spectacular St-Pierre Abbey, one of the major stopping places for those on pilgrimages from Le Puy-en-Velay to St James of Compostella in Spain.
Location
Moissac stands where the Canal de Garonne meets the Tarn river, part of the system of central France canals which links the Atlantic to the Mediterranean and near where the Tarn meets the Garonne.
Highlights
The Abbey Church of St-Pierre is a masterpiece. Originally founded in the 7^th century as a Benedictine Abbey church, St-Pierre was remodeled in 1063.
Approach it through a narrow winding street and you’re faced with the superb south entrance, a huge porch with a recessed doorway. Intricately carved columns of warm golden-colored stone hold up a tympanum depicting Christ in the center, raising his right hand and surrounded by the evangelists.

You need to be an expert or theologian to recognize the others: they’re the elders of the Apocalypse described in St. John’s Book of Revelation.

 After the entrance way, the interior, remodeled in the 15^th century, is a little disappointing in scale. But look out for the statuary, like the 15^th century wooden sculpture,  The Flight into Egypt. And up-end the monk’s misericords in the choir for their carved misericords, the small wooden shelf which let the monk rest against during the long hours of prayer and chanting.
Next to the abbey is one of the most beautiful and peaceful cloisters you could ever hope to find. Finished in 1100, it’s a large structure where the monks could walk, talk if they were allowed to and contemplate whatever monks contemplated.

It looks onto the interior garden planted with a large cedar in the middle. Marble columns hold up the roof, each with an intricately carved stone at the top depicting animals and plants, saints and scenes from the Bible.

On the Pilgrim Route
Because of its abbey, Moissac was on the pilgrim route from Le-Puy-en-Velay to St.

James of Compostella in Spain (GR65 walking route). If you want to walk the route, check out the Major Pilgrim Routes of France. Moissac Abbey is part of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites in France under the Routes of Santiago de Compostela classification, along with places like Conques in the Tarn gorges.

Where to Stay
I visited Moissac on a barge trip from Montauban to Agen. But if you want to stay there on an individual vacation, try the Moulin de Moissac, a large hotel and spa overlooking the river and near the marina. 1 Promenade Sancert, 00 33 (0)5 63 32 88 88.
Where to Eat
Le Florentin
8 place Roger Delthil
Tel.: 00 33 (0)5 63 04 19 18
Website in French
Good restaurant with well cooked dishes using local ingredients as well as offering pizzas and salads. Menus from €20. Sit outside opposite the abbey church and time it so that you’re there as the sun sets and the evening draws on. You’ll be rewarded with a delightful son-et-lumière show. Unfortunately it’s only in French, but it lights up the porch and the figures with different colors as the story progresses.
The Auberge du Cloîitre
5 Place Durand de Bredon
Tel.: 00 33 (0)5 63 04 37 50
Sit outside on a shaded terrace overlooking the abbey and eat dishes cooked with local ingredients. Menus from €18
Shopping
Seek out the Verrerie d’Art de Moissac, an atelier where you can watch the owners, Caroline Bufkens and Laurent Malgouyres blow the glass you see for sale (though only in the morning in high summer when its just too hot). It’s in a small courtyard along with other artisans' workshops, signposted from the street at 9 rue Jean Moura, tel.: 00 33 (0)5 63 04 21 46.
Tourist Office
6 place Durand de Bredon
Tel.: 00 33 (0)5 63 04 01 85
Website in English